Been away too long

It's been exactly 20 days since I have posted anything here, and I don't like it. The past few weeks have been quite busy with required work and extra-curricular stuff. Sitting down to write a fairly-intelligent grouping of words turned into several attempts not amounting to anything, and then realizing I had a deadline to meet for something else. But this time I'm back.

Apart from time restraints, I believe the biggest reason for not sharing much publicly is because I am, and have been, chest deep in the 2nd stage of culture shock. Until a few days ago I thought my culture shock was over with when I realized minor differences and somewhat accepted the fact that communicating would be difficult for my stay. But then someone informed me that culture shock is a much longer and complicated experience. To verify, I checked out Wikipedia, and she was right. The 2nd stage is a bitch. The "Negotiation Phase" as it is called is described as "After a few days, weeks, or months, minor differences between the old and new culture are resolved. One may long for food the way it is prepared in one's native country, may find the pace of life too fast or slow, may find the people's habits annoying, etc." This sentence is too nice. Currently, I cannot believe how I find myself disliking some aspects of this city. It does not help that Monterrey really is not a nice city, really, that's not culture shock talking. I even found myself starting to write a blog post describing the things that I did not like, but realized that I did not start this thing to complain or make blanket statements, but rather to put some intelligent (maybe) thoughts out there so that I can organize my thoughts and to hopefully get some good responses. Therefore I will not publicly state what I find annoying or what I currently do not find appealing. I'll save that for emails and instant messages when I can also brag about the nice weather compared to the snow I would normally be in at this time (I still can't believe I get to miss January-March in Muncie, so truly happy about that).

But today I received an email from Bryan Finoki from Subtopia about a little book quote chain that is happening. And I'm using this as a spring board back into writing. And it's working. I keep jotting down notes for several more blog posts in the near future. The rules to the blogtivity (can I claim that word, Google?) are:

1. Pick up the nearest book (of at least 123 pages).
2. Open the book to page 123.
3. Find the fifth sentence.
4. Post the next three sentences.
5. Tag five people.


Well, the nearest book was a tough call as I had a neat stack of three that was impossible to determine which was closer to me (feet, head, hands?). So I opened each to find the most interesting, and I was quite surprised to find a common theme between all three, and even more surprised at how they directly related to a major goal in two of the projects I am working on.

The first book, Shadow Cities: A Billion Squatters, A New Urban World, by Robert Neuwirth has page 123 in a chapter about Mumbai, India and states "[Sunder] guesses that Dharavi is home to 5,000 small printing businesses, and that there are more than 1,000 businesses related to the clothing industry with more than 50 sewing machines, and perhaps 3,000 businesses with fewer than 50 machines. Although it's impossible to know exactly, since all of these businesses are technically illegal, and therefore don't report income or pay taxes, the total turnover of all these firms probably amounts to $1 million a day. But, of course, even as Dharavi has developed, Mumbai has developed, too." This slice from the book kind of distorts the point of the chapter. In the last sentence, if Dharavi and Mumbai are switched, it would make more sense. The point to be made is that all parts of a city will adjust to survive. This part of the city is viewed by the legal city as an eyesore and a tax burden, but there is a huge amount of money being made here, which is what the legal city is based upon. We do not know if the operations of these businesses are efficient or were planned well, but we do know that they exist, and will continue to exist, on their own. Just because something is ignored does not mean it will simply go away. The ideal situation is to have this area acknowledged and to have it become part of the overall planning process. This is where the other two books step in.

The next book was Good Deeds, Good Design: Community Service Through Architecture, edited by Bryan Bell. Page 123, which is a piece written by Mark S. Goldman titled "The DreamTree Project: Forging Community Relationships," offers us "On the day that I assisted an elder from the Taos Pueblo, a sustainable community since ca. 1200 AD, in a ceremony blessing the DreamTree Shelter and its future residents, I reflected on the enthusiasm of the multicultural staff. Not only had we really created a place for homeless teenagers to be safe, but we had also built a home in which they could live with genuine pride." This is only two sentences because the chapter ends, but it is a good excerpt. The final 3 sentences comes from Studio at Large: Architecture in Services of Global Communities by Sergio Palleroni and Christina Eichbaum Merkelbach. Page 123, which describes a straw-bale house project, tells us "This house changed her life. She has been instrumental in getting several other straw-bale buildings built in the Crow and Northern Cheyenne reservations, and she has become a more vocal advocate for other issues on the reservation, such as cultural heritage and children's education opportunities. Trailers now form a courtyard behind her house where she runs an after-school study and reading center and a Crow cultural heritage center."

This idea of designing and building something as a catalyst for other things, more than just buildings, still seems like a cool and almost innovative idea; and it upsets me a bit. My fellow students at Ball State and myself have all had this goal in our projects, but it is often not the first step in the design process. Allow me to explain. Early in our education, the idea that your design is the culmination of all the surrounding contexts and functions is very common. Your project will solve any problems in the immediate surroundings. This may have happened in real life a few times, but really it's a design-ego building exercise, and it is difficult to put that aside--that feeling of fixing many problems with one design. The idea of a god working hard for several days and then stepping back and resting as she watches the creation function like clockwork. Well not even the God that is credited with the original creation had a screaming success, so how can a person who has 5-6 years of "superior education?" do better? My point being, it's difficult to alter this approach and to think of your project as a step in the process of many steps.

The studio project I am working on (group project) involves a nearby community that is in an area of constant development. These communities are not necessarily ignored, although there are several informal communities (either placed there by the government after illegally settling somewhere else, or actually settling illegally). But their unique, individual characteristics are not being thoughtfully considered in the master plan, nor are the individual characteristics of the land they are on. The goal of this studio is to start a master plan the evolves from conversations with social workers, urban developers, the people in the community, and with site visits. The project will actually be about 3-4 years, or 6-8 studio projects. We are just the beginning. Now that does not mean that we are half-assing it or anything, but it is a very appropriate and realistic approach to a project that will allow us to monitor what happens next. This is similar to what the book excerpts describe; that the projects had results that extend far beyond AutoCAD or trace-paper. Ideas are born by the people who use the result of the project, and they evolve naturally, not forced from a master plan. Also, the community is not left by itself to fend for itself, as is described in Shadow Cities. The community in the book is successful, but they are still illegal and can be stopped at anytime. It is not the ideal solution.

Another project that has a very defined goal involves the community of San Felipe that I have written about before. The goal of this project is to reintroduce traditional building methods and materials to the community. This reasons are to provide houses that are more comfortable, are sustainable, and have a true sense of place. This prototype house is a clear example of a catalyst for future development.

Well this simple book-quoting-chain thing turned into more writing than I expected, but it is good to be able to share more thoughts. And to finish the deal, here are five blogs that I find interesting, ranging in subject matter: bldgblog (very interesting stuff discovered here), Design Altruism Project (interesting thoughts and work), A Matter of Life and Death (blog of someone that lives in Monterrey), Slums: The Problem (A semi-blog by Lebbeus Woods), Inhabitat (a site that generally has good environmentally-friendly product news).

Getting my hands dirty for the first time

Saturday the 9th was the first day where physical results could be seen. It started with me wanting to get involved with the volunteering organization here at Tec. There is a project entitled 10 casas x 10 familias, where employees of Tec are provided decent housing, as some of them do not currently have it. The architecture department designs the houses and then student volunteers build the houses later in the semester. All students at Tec have to complete 400 hours of social service, so the volunteering program is very popular. The situation of one woman who is a part of the program was briefly explained to me. She is currently living in a house made of corrugated metal pieces on a very uneven surface of rocks, and one room cannot be used as the sewage from the neighboring house has begun to seep into the house. It is good that Tec is doing something, but I wonder if other situations are being missed.

Then I remember some situations in Indiana. The houses may not be in as crude a state, but there is a lot to endure, especially now with the temperatures at night and the flooding that recently took place. Does BSU know about the living conditions of their employees? Are they doing anything to find out? If so I have no idea about it. But everyone in the architecture program here in Monterrey knows about 10x10. And what is so cool about this is that the homeowners are involved from the beginning. With every decision.

I chose this project because it is a very good thing that is happening, but also I want to improve my knowledge of building within the community, learn Spanish words for building related terms, and simply to get out of the house and do something memorable. When I signed up with the volunteering organizers, I found out that 10x10 was being headed by a graduate student I had met a few times, and actually works with Pedro (my professor) quite a bit. So I sought him out on Friday and he said to meet up the next morning at 9:00 am to start working. First he showed me some of what has been happening.

Let me first say that some of the facilities at ITESM are amazing. There is a whole part of one of the buildings, a very large part, that is full of student experiments in sciences, computing, construction, and stuff I haven't even seen yet. The coolest thing I have seen is some students working on an earthquake-proof house. This is an adobe house with many layers of wire, but the entire structure is built on a platform that can mimic the motion of an earthquake. There are also sensors being implemented into the construction for further data. It looks so cool. They were working on it on Saturday and I asked when the shaking is going to happen. One of the students told me 7-10 days. I hope I don't miss it.

Well, with such a nice place to work and plenty of room for storage, many ideas are being born. With 10x10, the goal is to make good houses that are easy to build, do not cost a lot, and have principles of sustainable actions. The wall materials that are being investigated are fiberglass form work that was used to pour concrete in the construction of the Tec parking garage as well as refrigerator doors that came out of the factory with small defects. Pedro has actually put refrigerator doors on part of his house.

Right now there is a small experimental structure that is completed that used the concrete form work, but the house using refrigerator doors is only about 1/4 done, and there are many issues to work out, namely keeping water out. Two photos can see seen below. More can be found here.





Saturday morning began with some loading of materials and then heading to the job site, which is a piece of land on Tec property where agriculture research is also being done and there was a pen of chickens too. Some time was spent on the job site, with some of the new students debating strategies with Roberto, the graduate student who is in charge of the operation. The conversation was in Spanish, but I believe it consisted of Roberto telling the younger kids that the goal was not to complete the house as soon as possible, but to investigate different ways to put the materials together. And also to use safety on the job site. After the discussion we dismantled a section of 6 doors that had been assembled to a steel frame with the expectation of somehow putting the assembly onto the roof. They realized there was no feasible way to do it, so we took it apart and started carrying the doors up to the roof and installing them. After awhile, Roberto took me to see some other things.

His thesis project is similar to what my studio project is this semester. A studio from a year ago went into a community very near Tec called Alfonso Reyes. This community used to live illegally somewhere else but was relocated by the city to a piece of land that borders a canal that is occasionally the overflow area for raw sewage. The community originally wanted a church built, but after some discussions, they changed their mind and wanted a classroom for children to learn computer skills. The structure is 90% done and further development of a master plan is in the process. This last part is Roberto's thesis project; studying the outcome of the work done so far and finding out what to do next.

When we arrived at Alfonso Reyes, it was determined that the plan was to collect several semi-large stones so that a concrete pad could be constructed. In order to save money and amount of concrete, the area to be paved is covered with rocks and then the concrete fills the gaps and binds the rocks together. Not only does it save money, but it looks more unique than a regular concrete pad. The problem is getting the rocks.

I soon learned that we were going into the adjacent canal to get the rocks, the same one that has been used as raw sewage overflow. The canal was fairly dry, but the underside of the rocks were not, and every time I touched something gooey, a little part of me said "stop, this is gross." But I gritted my teeth and kept on, making a mental note not to touch my eyes or mouth. We worked for about 1.5 hours and searched in two locations. It was actually kind of a fun activity, despite the smell. There were 4 of us students and 6 men from the community.

At one moment, one of the men, Moya, collected a few corn-cob looking things that were growing. Roberto told me that they were used for showering. It is amazing at the little things that one can learn from simply getting out of the cushy university environment. A shower sponge from just a few hundred meters away instead of paying for one at the store and having to wait in line with snotty-nose kids all around. What is to be noted from this observation is not the fact that Moya is overly intelligent for making use of this natural material, as it is required due to the fact that money can not be spent for such things, but rather the fact that it is surprising to get something very useful without spending money. When we need something, we give someone else money to get it, a simple process. Many people do not know what is growing in their back yards, or their back yards simply exist to show others that they know how to drive a lawn mower in a straight line for an extended period of time. I am thankful that I grew up in a house that grew a lot of it's food during the summer months, but there is so much about our 4-acre property that I never really knew. 3 of the 4 acres were pretty much left to grow wild. What kind of things grew and lived in these unknown acres? Without straying too far, the point is that such a simple act of collecting a plant to shower with struck me as unique. And it would strike most people the same way.

A similar event happened during the first visit to San Felipe. When some of the men were showing me the water collection areas in the desert, they showed me a plant that they chewed that made your breath fresh. It did not taste great, but it was not horrible. After a few minutes, they told me that it was also a digestive system cleaner. I stopped eating it immediately as I did not want a surprise reaction to some desert plant during my first night in rural Mexico. Some of the guys laughed at me when I spit out the plant after finally deciphering what it was they were telling me.

I want to make it clear that I'm not attempting to romanticize these actions. In the case of Alfonso Reyes, the people do not have a choice whether or not to use found materials for everyday life. But I find myself asking myself, "what gives me the right to come in thinking I know about sustainable design when I don't even know the environment around me?" William McDonough has said (paraphrased) that most architects don't even know how to find solar noon. It's true, I have no idea, and it makes me uncomfortable that I don't know. I'm sure this was taught to us in one of the 9:00 sessions of Natural Systems back in 2nd or 3rd year, which is also the least favorite class of anyone in the architecture program. Anyway, there is a big disconnect between ideals and reality. And the sad part, this has all been said before. Now I'm saying it like it's a new idea. And someone else will say it again. I want to blame education for not teaching me this stuff, but I know it's more my fault, perhaps not a conscious fault, but a fault nonetheless in the sense that I have not made a big effort.

The subtitle of my thesis proposal: "Working with and Learning From ignored communities." Both objectives started and somewhat completed this weekend. I may miss the concrete box in the sky back in Muncie, but it is good to be here.

Getting to, and being in Real de Catorce

I awoke at 7:00 am in San Felipe, the small village where one of the projects is based. Actually I had woken up many times earlier because the roosters were very loud. I stepped outside and was able to watch the sun rise over the mountain.



The plan for the morning was to get a ride to the main road at 7:30 and wait for a bus that was supposed to show up at around 8 am in order to go to Matehuala (30 miles away), and from there catch a bus to Real de Catorce to meet up with the rest of the tour group.

My ride arrived on time and we had a little discussion on the way to the main road. It turns out he has worked in several states on roof construction, as was planning to go back to Minnasota this coming Summer. We arrived at the main road and I went and stood beside the sign with a bus on it. There was another woman waiting, so I asked her if this was the bus stop to get to Matehuala. She said yes, but did not appear she wanted to talk any further, so I left her alone. Several minutes passed, about 15, and judging from the other woman's demeanour, the bus was late. Just then a good-sized tan van pulls over and motions for us to get in. I was hesitant for a split second, but decided to jump in after making sure the driver was headed to Matehuala. Inside was the driver, his wife who was seated on a makeshift seat between the two front seats, and another women who had been picked up earlier. We headed on down the road listening to traditional Mexican music. After 3 more bus stops, we had 12 people in the van. It was designed to seat 9, but it was not too crowded.

Soon we were in Matehuala, I paid my 30 pesos ($3) and asked how to get to the bus station. The driver told me to go around the block to a taxi stand. I did just that and got a taxi to the bus station for 25 pesos. I could have walked, but it's ok. I went to the desk and found that I had to wait 3 hours for the next bus. I spent the first hour in the bus station failing miserably at crossword puzzles, then I wandered around and sat in a park for awhile, then I got some food. Before I knew it, it was time to make it back to the station and I got on the bus. We took off and Spiderman 2 began playing with low volume and Spanish subtitles.

After about an hour there was a sign for Real de Catorce and we turned onto a narrow road made of bricks. This road lasted about 15 miles. Then we arrived at the entrance to the town, which is a 3 km tunnel. Real de Catorce used to be a mining town, but now it is mainly a tourist attraction, but it still has the feel of a real town. We switched into a smaller bus like sardines, and headed into the tunnel. Just as we entered the tunnel I saw that the school group was just arriving, so I was just in time.

The rest of the trip consisted of typical tour stuff. We rode horses up a mountain and explored old mining buildings and went a few meters into an old mine. While on my horse, a water bottle in my backpack opened, so both the horse and I got a little wet. Another story about the horses, they did not like to passed by each other, so when one horse tried to pass another, the horse in front would usually just cut off the other, but there were times when biting was involved.

Than night we were encouraged to attend a wedding reception being held in town. It was interesting for a few minutes. The groom's friends had a tradition of completely soaking the groom with beer, soda, water, anything in a bottle. And they did a fine job, then paraded the groom around the room on their shoulders.

We left the wedding and were led to an old arena where we were told we were going to watch a cock fight. I said no thanks and started to leave, but one of the tour guides said there were no blades on the feet, so I was able to justify it by saying that mild rooster confrontations occur everyday on farms all over the world. The roosters actually ended up becoming friends by the end of the "fight."

The night ended with the tour guides telling us to go find beer and bring it back to the hotel (which we had rented every room) and we would have a small party. It was a fun time.

The next morning was spent learning from some Indians from Jalisco who taught us a craft involving tiny beads. The tradition is to eat peyote, hallucinate, then draw the visions you had with the beads. We were not provided the inspiring peyote, but were given the craft materials. Most of us did not do so well with the tiny pieces of plastic, but some people did a good job.

The same Indian gave us a blessing ceremony for the trip home involving blowing smoke on us and splashing water on us. I wonder if he made that part up on the spot.

We left the town by piling into the back of two pickup trucks and being led out of the city like a bunch of livestock be hauled to the slaughterhouse. I found it funny.

The trip was interesting and I'm glad I got to see the town. The best part was getting there on my own. I now feel comfortable taking the buses from town to town, which is actually very common as not nearly everyone has a car. Pictures of this trip can be found here.

My first experience with rural Mexico

One of the most memorable moments thus far took place on the 25th and 26th of January. Some quick background: I have three classes here at Tec. One is studio, one is a Mexican history class (fascinating stuff and is actually helping to explain and give depth some of my observations), and a class entitled Viviendo (dwelling or living). The purpose of this class is to study the vernacular architecture of the rural Altiplano region of Mexico, which is basically a desert area in the northern part of the country. (This class takes the place of ARCH 526, Fundamentals of Historic Preservation). This class is focused on a very small village (20 families, less than 100 people) named San Felipe. San Felipe is an ejido, or communal village, and traditionally relies on local resources for survival. In recent years, the people of San Felipe have begun using materials such as concrete and corrugated metal from distant places. These materials are easier and faster to build with, but they cost more, are uncomfortable in cold and hot weather, are harmful to the environment, lose the sense of place that is San Felipe, and simply are not as pleasing to the eye. Most of the people in San Felipe have relatives in the United States that send them money, and some of the men in the village have (and continue to) spent time in the United States working, usually in the summer and usually in construction. This foreign influence has two noticeable affects on the construction of the village. First is the idea that using concrete and metal, which go through many steps of transportation and manufacturing after raw materials are extracted from the earth, have a higher social standard than a house made of elements that are very close to their natural state (i.e. earth blocks, reed ceilings, thatch roofs, etc.). Second, the construction techniques of buildings in the U.S. are learned and implemented into San Felipe. The purpose of the class, other than documentation, is to continue work on a prototype house that uses vernacular and traditional building materials and methods as much as possible, while using new materials when needed.

Earlier I listed problems that arise with the use of concrete and metal. I first struggled, and still do to a degree, with justifying some of these problems. I felt like we were imposing problems onto the community. The idea that the materials were removing the sense of place from San Felipe and the fact that they were not pleasing to the eye seemed judgmental. But that is what architecture often is, making judgments about built structures, judging the proposed work of others, and judging our own decisions. I realized I was hesitant to recognize some of these problems because I did not want to come across as condescending. But by being afraid to be condescending I was not putting this community on a level playing field, in the architectural sense. Because the people of San Felipe have a different lifestyle that I am not familiar with and because I had the impression that they did not have a lot of resources to choose from, I felt bad being critical of their choices. But not being critical and standing by while someone makes a bad or uninformed choice when I am in the position to be a source of information or a resource of labor, than I will not be able to do any good and will not be able to gain true understanding. As long as I am approaching the situation in a top-down/people-in-need-of-help style instead of an approach that has the future condition, stability, knowledge, and sustainability of San Felipe as the focus than I might as well have never gotten involved in the project. But realizations like this (no matter how ashamed you sometimes feel having them) are great to have, and I'm glad that the last year has been full of them.

So these were the thoughts in my head going into this project, most of them before I had made my way to San Felipe. At 6:30 am, I arrived at the campus of Tec to meet up with Pedro Pacheco, my professor, and two others who were going to San Felipe on the first visit of the semester. (Side note: There are several projects headed by Tec that are focused on San Felipe including capture and storing of rainwater for human drinking, irrigation, and animal consumption; better agricultural methods; improved latrines; production of biofuel; strengthening of the ejido (communal) system; creation of business opportunities from agriculture; and the building of a sustainable prototype house.)

We began the 3 hour journey in a good sized pickup truck, the four of us. We soon stopped for coffee (why everyone has to drink coffee I will never understand) and I was unfortunate to discover we were also meeting another person who would be joining us in the truck. He turned out to be quite large, which means he automatically got shotgun while I got backseat, middle, feet on the hump. But after tons of beautiful scenery, some breakfast that included green eggs (due to the salsa verde), a cd of a Mexican comic which had everyone cracking up (except for the non-Spanish speaker), and a short nap, we were soon there. And by there I mean a 4-mile long lane just off the main highway leading off into the distance. The lane was dirt, had several ruts, and not-so-subtly suggested not traveling over 10 mph.

After a few minutes on the lane we came to the crest of the hill and looked over a small valley, and in that valley in the distance began to appear some earth-colored one-story structures in a near-grid pattern. This was my first glimpse of San Felipe. We entered the village and parked in front of the community building known as Casa Vida. Within minutes nearly all the men in the village made their way to the the building (it is hard to enter the village without everyone knowing it). I had two surprises immediately. First was the dress of the men. I wasn't sure what I was expecting exactly, but it was not what I saw. They were dressed exactly like my uncles do on their farm in Indiana. I wasn't expecting primitive rags or anything, but I was expecting something somewhat Mexican or traditional. But why would they wear the kind of clothes that requires either special ordering or actually making them rather than wearing clothes that are easy to get. The second striking thing was that only men showed up to the building. In fact, that entire day I only came within speaking range with seven women and girls.

The conversation in the Casa Vida went on for 2 hours. I know this because I recorded it on a digital recorder with hopes of listening to it later to better understand what was said, the length seems daunting, however. From what I understood, the directer of Tec programs gave a summary of the progress that had been made and then some of the people of the community voiced concerns or thoughts they had.

We then took a short tour of some of the village including a prototype house the people of the village have started on their own, the prototype house that Pedro has started, some of the houses that people live in, a house that has been abandoned after the owner died, and just walking through the paths between the buildings.

Pedro & Sergio discuss the height of the community prototype building.

A traditional ceiling. This is not able to collect water and also can be full of dust and insects.

A traditional chimney that houses the cooking area.

While visiting the prototype house I saw a demonstration comparing two types of blocks made from local earth. The comparison was dropping them from chest height. One retained its original shape, the other chose to become many smaller earthen pieces and dust. There was a larger stack of the later block type, I don't think that is a good sign.

Block that survived the fall.

Did not survive the fall.

It was interesting to see the current state of the prototype house as there are construction methods I am not familiar with and will get to experience first hand as I begin to work on the house later on in the semester.



We made our way to what I consider the most elaborate house in the village (paint, details, garden layout, respect that people seemed to have for the owner) for lunch. It was delicious.

The hand-washing area just outside the kitchen.

Pedro then showed me some of the details of the abandoned house, which was falling apart, which is very nice as it allows us to see the layers of a traditionally-built house. I will definitely be spending more time in that house. He also showed me some failed attempts at recent building. The residents of San Felipe have forgotten some of the aspects of traditional building and have tried to mix traditional building with concrete. The results have been unfinished corners with rebar skeletons reaching up into the sky and un-roofed walls.



Another thing Pedro had me notice were the different fences. There were the usual chain-link or barbed wire, then there were what he calls "living fences" made of cactus and plant fibers, and then a mix of of the two ("half-living" or "comatose" fences perhaps?).





By this time it was about 3:30 in the afternoon and the men from Tec were ready to leave. I was signed up for a trip organized by the school to Real de Catorce, which was 2 hours further south. Rather than travel the 3 hours back to Monterrey and then travel 5 hours the next morning to Real de Catorce, I planned to stay the night in San Felipe and then catch a bus to Real de Catorce on my own in the morning. Pedro insisted that this plan would work out. I was skeptical but went along with it. Before the others left we made sure that I had a place to stay by asking the men at the meeting if anyone would be ok with letting me have a room. There was about a 15 second silence, then a man named Sergio said it would be ok. Also, Damasio and Jesus agreed to show me around the village for a while.

Immediately after the others from Tec left, I went to look at the water collection tanks that are fed by the roof of the Casa Vida and began asking some questions in bad Spanish.



Damasio must have grown bored because he wandered off. San Felipe receives all of it water for drinking, cooking, and bathing from rain. The groundwater in the area is contaminated with arsenic, from natural practices. For awhile the people were getting their water from a nearby pond, the same pond that local animals were drinking from. The result was serious and common stomach problems. Tec got involved and helped to set up a rainwater collection system. Now the people have a fresh supply of water, but they must use it sparingly. Jesus told me that the tanks were currently about 1/3 full. I asked Jesus how much it rained, but he was hesitant to tell me an amount or schedule. He said it rains when it rains, it's very unpredictable. The last time it rained was about 4 months ago.

We then wandered over to the primary school, which is one room. It was made of concrete blocks and a metal roof. I asked why these materials were used, and Jesus told me that the government has paid for and built the school, therefore the government picked the materials. There were also 3 empty buildings within the school lot that were once the houses for the teachers, but are now unused. From what I understood, the teacher comes from outside the community now, and I do not think that there is class every day of the week.

I then suggested we visit Jesus's house, he seemed pleased that I wanted to see it. We neared the house and I saw that it was made of concrete blocks and a metal roof. I asked about the temperature in the summer, and he said that it was not bad. He left two sides of the common room open air to allow for air flow, and he explains that this keeps the house cool. He made it very clear that only half the house was finished, as one side did not yet have plaster on the inside. I thought it was funny how there seemed to a chicken on every piece of furniture, until Jesus chased them out. Compared to the traditional houses I was in earlier, this house did not seem as inviting. It seemed like a shelter, not a home. But Jesus seemed happy that he had chosen to use concrete and metal.

Roof detail on Jesus's house.

After the short tour, Jesus explained that he wanted to be with his family and excused me. I had no idea where to go next, so I headed to the house where we had eaten lunch since it was my favorite house so far. As I approached the house I saw that there were 5 men sitting around the table in one of the rooms. I asked if I could join them and they offered a seat. We spent a few moments talking about the meeting earlier and I also learned that two of the men, who were just a few years older than me, were from Monterrey and could speak decent English. This was helpful so that when I did not know a word in Spanish I could ask for a translation instead of fumbling around for another way to say something. We also started talking about the rainwater collection and they asked me if I had seen the storage tanks outside the village. I was not aware they existed, so we jumped in a pickup and headed out into the nearby desert.

There were 4 water collection areas near the village that was used to water the cattle and goats, some of which are semi wild. Each storage area has water filtered by gravel and is surrounded by a chain link fence and meter-high berm to protect from contamination.



After the tour of the water storage areas, the two visitors from Monterrey left for home and the other men excused me. Not knowing what to do next, I discovered that the village teenage boys were playing volleyball. By the time I reached the court it was minutes to dusk so the game was winding down. I asked them what people did at night, and they told me that sleeping was popular. They all decided to go elsewhere, so I hit the streets again. As I was looking for something to do, I noticed that a popular activity of the late teens was to simply drive around and kick up dust just outside of the village. Realizing I could be hit if I stayed in the street, I wandered to the small store beside the Casa Vida where I saw a few people sitting. There were 3 men and two boys sitting and listening to some music playing from a parked car. We made some small talk then it was time for the store to close (8 pm) and they all headed home. I did manage to ask them if every weekend was like this, and they said they have fiestas with nearby villages at least once a month. So there is a regular dose of excitement.

With nothing else to do, I went to Sergio's house were I found him working on the back axle to his truck. He invited me to sit down and watch some TV to improve my Spanish, which I did. He soon invited me to eat some dinner, where I got to taste some of the water collected from the rain. All day I was contemplating whether or not I should risk drinking the water, but once it was offered to me I thought, "what's the worst that could happen?" and went for it. The worst that happened was a moth fell into the glass and drowned, and I got a fresh glass. I then returned to the TV and become re-acquainted with a Mexican soap opera I had seen a few years ago. It was so horribly dramatic, but it was entertaining.

I went to bed somewhat dreading the experience with finding the bus stop and waiting for the bus that was supposed to come. I also reflected on the high points of the day. I hoped I made a good impression on most of the people by giving my best attempt at Spanish and by asking questions. The people are not unfriendly, but they are not really outgoing to strangers either. When I started a conversation, they were happy to talk. I will be visiting again soon to continue documentation, and then work on the prototype house will begin in late-February or March. Much will be learned.